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Outback 2003 By Rod McGregor, Julie McGregor and Chris Hendry Stage 1 – Ayers Rock, Finke River Gorge, Alice Springs, Chambers Pillar, Mount Dare
Graeme Giles - GU 4.2L Turbo Diesel Patrol The weather started out crisp and sunny but by Horsham we were bucking strong headwinds and impending rain storms. Graeme Giles was only about 35 mins ahead but we were well across the South Australian Border before we caught up with him. (We were a little later getting away than the planned 0600hours). It crossed my mind when we finally met at Keith that it was strange that I hadn’t been able to raise Graeme by radio. The rain was heavy as we emerged from the Adelaide Hills and an immediate right turn onto Portrush Rd, one of the few roads identified on my last minute inclusion of a map of Adelaide. In all our detailed trip planning we hadn’t given much thought as to how to get across Adelaide on a busy and wet Sat arvo. Julie was driving this leg so I had the job of navigating for both vehicles. As I started calling the turns a voice came over the radio asking where we were headed and so started a one hour conversation with our volunteer navigator “Malcolm” who steered us and kept in contact until we were well on the road to Port Pirie. All this time Graeme was wondering who I was talking to and it became apparent that Graeme’s radio was not working well. Despite the weather we were making good time and so we decided to push on to Port Augusta. Arriving just before dark an inspection of Graeme’s aerial quickly revealed a broken wire. A fellow traveller heading for Broome offered us use of his butane soldering iron despite the rain and cold wind the cable was sweated in following a quick blast from my blowtorch and it was time for a beer. An early morning call from the Scheuerleins revealed that they were at Marla and they had left a box of fruit at Port Pirie – unfortunately we were at Port Augusta and unable to help. The trip from Port Augusta to Coober Pedy was uneventful although we were still being buffeted by strong winds. People we met coming down from up North were dreading the return to cold weather. It was starting to warm up as we pulled into Coober Pedy and luckily captured the last cabins at Big 4 just before the evening rush for accommodation. Shorts were the now order of the day as we strolled around the town and eventually settled for a beer and watch the end of the Sandown Classic being run in miserable weather in Melbourne.
Another early start for the 600km run up the highway to
Marla, the vegetation was quite lush after the moonscapes of the previous day.
Desert hops, everlasting daisies, white pink, purple and blue contrasted against
the red and black desert pea. Graeme hit one of the many wedgetail eagles
feeding on the side of the road, the Ghan train was pulling away from us at 105
kph and the temperature was in the 30’s when we pulled into Erldunda to refuel.
A left turn and we were headed for Ayers Rock. We found a nice spot at Yulara
and camp was well set up by 4.00pm providing time to visit the Rock. Next morning clouds were zooming in and it started raining, our annoyance at not being able to climb was attenuated by the rare sight of waterfalls on the rock. Not wanting to miss anything we hiked the Olgas and Ayers Rock despite the pouring rain and enjoyed every minute of the day. Next day we escaped Yulara just in time to beat an early thunderstorm and headed back to Erldunda to refuel and on the Henbury Craters and then the Finke River Gorge (FRG). Once again the temperature was climbing into the 30’s and shadows hard to find even though we could still see distant clouds in the area over Ayers Rock.
We missed the main turnoff track that led North into the FRG
and ended up driving up the soft sand of the Gregory river followed by three
European tourists in a well set up Defender who had decided to follow us. Later
in the day we were to catch sight of them again. After entering the FRG we left
the beaten path and headed cross country directly up the river until we
eventually came to a well defined track on the edge of the river bank. We
initially headed left but quickly decided that it was heading in the wrong
direction and leading us back down the Gorge, so we decided the straight ahead
option matched our GPS direction and headed North following the river, but the
track ran into a dead end. As we were retreating back to the intersection the
Defender reappeared following our tracks up the river and turned left. We
finally found having exhausted options that the right turn option leading across
the river was the correct path and we headed off again. About an hour later travelling alternately on river bed (partly sand and partly pebbles) and on track we came to a tee intersection at the river and again took the left option. Again it petered out and in making a three point turn Graeme got bogged in the sand. The only option was for me to back up past him and try to snatch backwards. In the process I dug a few holes in the track and we were both stuck. We are now claiming the best recovery of the year for a double snatch that got us both out. That night when camped in complete isolation –at Boggy Hole we wondered if we would ever see the Defender again. Julie was all for sending out a search party but Graeme and I decided a beer was a better bet. Next day we pressed further on up the FRG only getting lost one more time when taking a right turn when this time left was the correct option. By mid morning we were at Hermansburg and after a short stop headed for Palm Valley one of the roughest tracks we encountered , but well worth the effort to get there and some nice walks to be done – but not recommended in the heat of the day. We passed the Defender just as we were leaving Palm Valley and retraced our path to Larapinta Drive where Julie took the Toyota and headed right for Alice Springs to get the Video camera repaired whilst I got in with Graeme to head for Gosse Bluff -awe inspiring when we learned it was a comet site. Running out of time and 200km’s later we continued past Glen Helen Gorge, Standley Chasm etc. and on to Alice Springs as it was getting dark – now where did Julie say we were staying?? Friday was spent stocking up for the run South and the Simpson, lazing around the pool and Julie and Graeme took a helicopter flight over the West MacDonnell Ranges
The temperatures were starting to climb and we had been on
the road for one week as we headed south down the Stuart Highway to meet the
Sheuerleins who had left word that they were at Rainbow Valley and then on to
Mary Vale Station on the old Ghan line. A pleasant balmy Saturday night was
spent at Chambers Pillar before driving the old Ghan Track on Sunday to Finke
and out to the Lambert Geographical Centre of Australia –complete The next day started with cloudy skies and we looked forward to a cooler day but by lunch time the skies had cleared and the temperature climbing. Raining On The Rock – by Julie McGregor Leaving Yalara with the wonderful memories of Raining On The Rock. Rivulets of rain streams rushing down the sides, made up for the disappointment of not being able to say “I climbed the rock”. Also memories of our two trecks around the Olgas in the rain and cold winds. People using plastic bags to protect themselves. The quiet atmosphere and sheer power of The Rock makes you feel the ancient dreaming. We head East to the Stuart Highway and then to Henbury Craters. The sites of the meteorites plunging to earth creating such huge craters for the small size of the meteor. A quiet but hot walk around searching for fragments of the explosion. We now head West on Giles Track, miss the right turn off, do a “U” turn 5 km past. First mishap on the corrugations – strap holding down tyre on pack rack has come loose- and Defender pulls up whilst readjusting. Find right track and Graeme and Defender also - so three of us head up the track Northwards till come to wide dry river bed (Gregory). Graeme takes the lead – very scary –but many river beds later and beautiful country with Red Cliffs – we again make a wrong turn. Graeme gets bogged along the Finke, Rod snatches Graeme and in process gets bogged. Julie digs out sand, lays branches, takes photo’s – Boys doing OK – both bogged. A great experience and both do get out but light is fading fast - we make our way along small red overgrown, rocky and sandy tracks through gullies and fords, past pristine waterholes, and majestic cliffs to Boggy Hole. Camp along river on a sandy bank and have pasta and red wine. Wonder what happened to our friends. Thank goodness for satellite navigation to guide us as easy to get off the track. & take wrong direction. Notice all the insects spiralling in our light like a smoke cloud with bats swooping through for a feast. So quiet – boys still trying to find North by the stars but Southern Cross hasn’t risen. Graeme a little worried re his outside bed and Dingoes etc. Have our star chart out also – my first nite real camping – do love the quiet.. Except for spider & insects (heading for heaven). No rain. Also off with shovel for nature’s call. Rod is out looking at moon. I saw stars through tent roof and worried about the large spider. Up early and the great red cliffs - river beds - smooth stony tracks, along with deep patches of sand. Billabongs and dry river beds, the ULTIMATE 4WD trip. All enjoying the wonderment of it all. This track is so special – Pelicans sitting on rocks, bird life, Gorges - real Albert Namatjira country – we must come back! Julie did the driving today, tyres down to 25 psi - much easier! Few vehicles noticed today. Drove into Hermannsburg on red sandy track we couldn’t pick way to go but a drover tending a bore scanned our channel and advised the correct track to take. Off to Palm Valley over roughest stone track ever –worth it to see 100 – 300 year old palms –very hot today. Rod driving too fast into bends with the car contents jumping + +. Graeme has lost all his milk. On return to Larapinta Drive Julie turned right heading direct for Alice Springs trundled along quietly for 126Km’s because of low tyre pressures. Took camera to be fixed - Graeme and Rod arrived in exhausted about 7.00pm having taken the long way via Gosses Bluff and Redrock Gorge etc. Stage 2 – Ouyen, Parachilna, Leigh Creek, Marree, William Creek, Algebuckina, Oodnadatta, Dalhousie Springs
Chris & Pat Hendry – 2.8L Turbo Diesel GU Patrol Friday 26th September was a typical Melbourne spring day – cold, windy, rain threatening. But our spirits were high; after months of preparation and planning the BIG DAY had finally arrived. The vehicles were well prepared, carefully loaded and tanked up as the departure hour finally arrived. There were six vehicles in the second group. We were going ahead with the Walkers and we all agreed to meet up at Ouyen that evening where we were staying overnight. The drive to Ouyen was uneventful apart from some rain squalls and a strong headwind. It was good to see that the spring rain had finally broken the drought and the cereal crops in the mallee were looking promising. We arrived in Ouyen mid-afternoon and did some last minute shopping while Bruce and Ann revisited their old stamping ground which was close by. Our motel recommended the Victoria Hotel for dinner which was a good choice. We had hardly started the main course when the Rashleigh’s and Baker’s arrived. The Sherburn’s were still a couple of hours away.
Next morning dawned fine and we looked forward with
anticipation to the long drive into the Outback that lay ahead. Leaving Ouyen we
headed north to Mildura, where we turned east to Renmark. In Renmark we replaced our fruit and vegetable supplies then it was across the Murray River on the ferry and on to Burra where we stopped for a very pleasant picnic by the river. We still had many miles to cover so we pressed on through Peterborough and Hawker, finally arriving in Parachilna as darkness was falling. Our overnight night stop was at the Angorichina Tourist Village, some 15kms down a dirt road to the east of Parachilna. After a few creek crossings we finally made it to the Village where the welcoming sign said “NO YUPPIES – REAL PEOPLE ONLY”. Deciding that we were real people we ventured inside to be shown to our comfortable, but basic, cabin accommodation. We spent a very pleasant evening having a communal barbecue. Next morning we drove back to the main road through the beautiful Parchilna Gorge that we had missed in the dark the night before. One of the highlights was seeing a rock wallaby complete with a joey in its pouch standing in the early morning sun. Once on the main road we regrouped and set off to on the drive to Leigh Creek. We hadn’t been under way more than a few minutes when the Walkers came to a standstill with a blow out on one of their rear tyres. The service station in Leigh Creek was unable to help us on a Sunday morning, however a call to T Cooke 4x4 Repairs in Copley a few miles further up the road confirmed that the had the choice of three different tread patterns for a GQ Patrol and they would fit a new tyre while we waited. When we arrived the owner immediately recognised the Baker’s mustard Rangie as he had repaired the front diff last year when Michael Baker took it to the Solar Eclipse. The tyres were about the same price as they would be in Melbourne so Bruce bought two! For future reference fuel in Copley is three cents a litre cheaper than Leigh Creek.
Soon we were on our way again to the next stop at the Ochre
mine in Lyndhurst. When we stopped there was a strong smell of LPG and a hissing
noise emanating from the Sherburn eighty-niner. Convinced that there must be a
crack in the gas pipe Neil turned the gas off at the tank only to discover later
that all we were hearing was gas escaping through the expansion valve as the
tank had been overfilled. We had lunch in Marree where there was a hot gusty
wind blowing. The Ghan locos have been repainted in their original livery
Next morning we broke camp about 9:00am and made our way
After the station the track deteriorated rapidly as we crossed over corrugated gibba plain. About 25kms out from Dalhousie as we came over a hill we heard some static on the CB and then Rod’s voice came through. The other part of the group that had come down from Mt Dare was already at Dalhousie Springs. We briefly managed to establish contact before we lost their signal as we drove down into a valley. We later heard them decide it was too hot to wait for us so they decided to leave for Purni Bore. An hour later we arrived at Dalhousie, the thermometer indicating that the outside temperature was 44º. There was no option but to have a swim in the hot springs to ‘cool down’. It was just like swimming in a hot bath - the best bit was when you came out of the water and the wind cooled you off a little. After lunch under a sun shelter we too decided that it was too hot to hang around so we too left for Purni Bore and the Simpson Desert. The plan was to cross the Desert from west to east in four days, which meant three desert camps.
Finally we all met up and after exchanging greetings and
stories we set up camp for the night. There
Next morning was still warm but some of us got up early enough to witness a spectacular sunrise setting off a magnificent array of hard and soft colours. There was a new moon as we crossed the desert so the absolute darkness and clarity of the stars added to the experience. Never before had I seen the Milky Way and the Cloud of Magellan so clearly. Some of us were lucky enough to see a satellite passing directly overhead.
Day two in the desert saw the group cross sand dune after
sand dune – an average of about 50 an hour. We took the French Line, which was
constructed by the French Petroleum Company in the 1960s and is the most direct
(but not the easiest crossing). We had a slightly later than planned start as
the Sherburn ‘eighty-niner’ was complaining about the heat and refusing to
start. Several animal tracks could be seen in the early morning sand, including
dingoes, camels, lizards and the occasional snake track. The colours of ‘The
Simpson’ are truly amazing. The rich ochre red sand, snow white saltpans, the
intense blue sky, the grey-green spinifex with frequent splashes of yellow,
purple and pink wildflowers leave an indelible impression. Day three, we stopped at Poeppel Corner for lunch which presented the rare opportunity to stand in Qld, NT and SA all at the same time. We diverted to the north to pick up the QAA Line with the last desert camp before Big Red and Birdsville. Most of the vehicles performed well in the extreme heat of the desert crossing. The eighty-niner continued with its starting problems would eventually reluctantly come to life. Karl Martin had steering pump problems. A recently fitted duel batter system had broken it moorings which punctured the batter and poured battery acid all over the steering pump. Birdsville Auto diagnosed a points problem and fixed the eighty niner with a minimum of fuss and at reasonable prices. They also performed a temporary fix on the K-M Cruiser. During our trip across the desert we had seen several camel footprints but no camels. Eventually our patience was rewarded. Late in the morning on the third day as we crossed a larger than average dune we saw a herd of about twenty camels walking along the summit of the next dune. It could have been a scene from the Arabian Nights! Day four dawned not quite so hot and by late morning we arrived at the formidable ‘Big Red’ – the penultimate and by far the largest dune that we had to cross. All the vehicles in our group crossed without too much difficulty apart from one – which will remain nameless. Atop Big Red we posed for a Group photograph and then it was down the other side to re-inflate tyres and a straightforward 35km drive into Birdsville.
Birdsville That evening we celebrated the Club’s 10th Anniversary at a dinner specially catered for by the Hotel. The menu included smoked emu and kangaroo steaks. Many toasts were made and yarns exchanged. A most enjoyable evening was had by all. Next morning we posed outside the Hotel for yet another group photograph. Peter and Terry plus the Bakers headed down the Birdsville Track and back to Melbourne while the rest of the Group split into two for the journey to Innamincka. One going via Betoota and Haddon Corner; the other through the Cordillo Downs Station. Rod McGregor had a connection with the station and we were able to see the parts not normally accessible to the public. Cannot but help admire the fortitude of the families that originally settled such remote regions and turned them into successful grazing dynasties.
Innamincka
After the excitement of all the travelling it was very
pleasant to spend a couple of day’s R&R at Coonjie Lakes. When we arrived we had
the lakes all to ourselves so we were able to secure the best campsite in
isthmus that juts out into the lake. Coonjie was as peaceful and serene as ever.
The highlight of the stay being the “walk across the lake”. For those who aren’t
familiar with the area Coonjie is very shallow – only a few centimetres above
Gini Adcock’s head! To the delight of the photographers Coonjie provided it’s
usual spectacular sunsets and sunrises.
All too soon it was time to break camp once again and head back to Innamincka for our last bush camp before the long trip home. We drove to Tibooburra via the Bore Track which is now open to the public. We had a little trouble finding the start of the track but two friendly Santos employees showed us the way. The track is generally well maintained and the lower half runs across private land and a $10 toll applies. Good value when compared to Citilink! Another Melbourne family tagged along with us for the day. Strangely, we encountered the same family on our next trip to Pineapple Flat. At Tibooburra most of us checked into either the Family Hotel or the Tibooburra Hotel where the rooms vary from three stars to basic. That night we were awoken by the sound of heavy rain falling on the roof. Next morning, you guessed it, the silver City Highway was closed. A quick check at the RTA depot revealed that the road may open that afternoon or it may not. In the circumstances it didn’t open so we were forced to spend another day there. Now Tibooburra has two pubs, a café, a small museum, a servo, a bush hospital, the school of the air and an open air cinema that shows four movies a year. The next showing being True Grit the Friday after we left! Yes, we checked out them all – twice – and had a beer in both pubs. Finally we managed to get away the next day. Even though the road was still not officially open we were advised that it would be by the time we got to the other end. And they were right! The RTA man was changing the sigh at the Broken Hill end as we drove past. Broken Hill was cold and wet after the heat of the desert. Here we went our separate ways. Some lingering behind to “do” the galleries, the rest heading down south to Mildura and home. I have been on many long trips with the Club and this rates up there with the best. We enjoyed great company, many happy evenings around the campfire telling yarns, no major incidents and some spectacular scenery. Crossing the Simpson is a challenge that can be a little intimidating at times, but the images of big horizons, inky night skies, sand, dunes, desert flowers and soaring eagles will last for ever. Have a look at more pictures at the Photogallery - you might even be in one! |
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with mini
Parliament House Spire and Australian Flag in the middle of nowhere –temperature
approaching 40degrees C. We returned to Finke and headed for Mt Dare Station and
our last fuelling point before the Simpson. Monday morning we headed off to
Dalhousie Ruins with the day promising to be extremely hot. Julie tried her best
to step on a brown snake but it was too quick and headed off for the safety of
the ruins. Next stop was the springs at Dalhousie where the hot water did
nothing to quench our thirsts. Lack of shade and extreme heat forced the
decision to move on for Purni Bore where we were to meet up with the second
group coming from Oodnadatta in the late afternoon. Incidents with scorpions and
donkeys plus 45 degree temps (min 30 overnight) ensured that Purni Bore will
remain in our memories. It was good to have all the party together but the
extreme heat was putting pressure on temperament, water supplies, our fridges
and on vehicles – demonstrating how little is the margin between being a well
planned, well equipped trip and a potential disaster. 
Shortly after crossing
the South Australia border we arrived at the fruit fly control checkpoint. We
were confident that we would have an easy passage through, having checked the SA
Gov website. Obviously the official who checked our vehicle hadn’t seen the same
website as he confiscated our onions. Ever tried making decent burgers without
onions? 
and it
was good to see that the graffiti has been removed. After Marree we turned on to
the Oodnadatta track which had been recently graded so we were able to maintain
a good average speed. We stopped briefly at Curdimurkah, then for a photo
opportunity at Lake Eyre, which was of course completely dry. Next stop was at
William Creek, where we checked out the famous hotel and yes the beer was cold!
After William Creek it was just 140kms to our second Outback overnight stop at
Algebuckina where we were due to rendezvous with Milton and Carol. Algebuckina
is where the old Ghan track crosses the Neales River and there is an excellent
campsite on the banks of the river just past the road bridge. Just as planned we
made contact with Milton on the CB as we passed through Algebuckina and he
guided us into the campsite over the radio. A fine site it was too for our first
bush camp. Most of us managed to find a spot right on the river. For future
reference there is a good swimming hole there as well. 
the
38km up the track to Oodnadatta. Sun was shining brightly – day warming up. We
were in for a hot one! A visit to the famous Pink Roadhouse provided us with our
Desert Parks Passes, an ice cream and final supplies. Tanked up for our last
refuelling before the Simpson crossing so extra jerry cans were filled too. Neil
was a bit worried about the eighty niner, which was using more fuel than it
should and was proving a little difficult to start. Milton went on ahead and the
main party finally departed Oodnadatta at about 10:30 in good time for the
scheduled early afternoon RV with Graeme, Rod and Karl-Martin. We all adjusted
our tyre pressure to 25psi on the advice of the people at the Roadhouse. After
17kms we turned off onto the very well maintained Hamilton Station track.
Passed through fertile country – plenty of interesting vegetation and birdlife.
wasn’t much water in the bore and,
even after dark, a hot wind continued to blow – nevertheless a pleasant evening
was had by all. A few ‘coldies’ were shared and the stories became taller! Rod
McGregor became the hero of the day when he dispatched a scorpion that had
decided to spend the night in Lisa and Eva’s tent! We turned in relatively early
only to be rudely awoken by the loud ee-awing of a very disgruntled donkey.
Apparently we had set up camp in its customary path to the bore. 
On the last night we held an impromptu
disco on the beach - it just seemed to be the natural thing to do at the time.