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BUTCHER COUNTRY /WONNANGATTA ANZAC WEEKEND25– 28 APRIL 2002 As we passed by the Anzac Day ceremonies being held in Traralgon and Heyfield, on our way to the high country, – both ceremonies being conducted in brilliant sunshine, we reflected on the fact that it was still raining and cold in Melbourne. Those that chided us at daring such a trip deep into the high country with such a poor chance of good weather were once again to be proven wrong. Four vehicles were at the Rose Avenue for the formal assembly and departure at 0900 hours:
We proceeded to rendevous with Graeme Giles (GQ Patrol) and Chris and James Hendry (GU Patrol) for lunch at Licola arriving right on time at 12.30 pm - in beautiful sunshine. After lunch and refuelling we proceeded up the Target Creek track to Glencairn and then off to find the Black Soil Track to take us up over the range and down into the next valley where we would meet the Macallister River Track. From the start of the Black Soil Track we changed down to low range where we would stay for the next 170KM until we reached the Moroka Road late Sunday afternoon en route to Licola. The Macallister River Track was in very good condition but nevertheless provided an interesting drive with the bush being much greener than on our last trip eighteen months earlier. Some of the river crossings looked very pretty in the mid afternoon sun and provided a number of photo opportunities. By 4.00pm we had located a great campsite on a bend in the river shaded by scattered gum trees and soon the campsite was well established. By nightfall we had a good fire going and we had set up a large kitchen fly in case some of the poor weather that we left behind in Melbourne caught up with us. We had delayed our cooking to enjoy a few beers and were late starting to cook our steaks on the hot plate when suddenly the rain started and there was a solid downpour. Cooking of dinner was finished with the help of umbrellas and Japaras. In the middle of all the rain three vehicles arrived looking lost and very dirty –they apparently had been negotiating a difficult track and had been winching in the dark for several hours. Our fire and cosy campsite must have helped them to decide it was time to stop and pitch camp. Day Two (Friday): Following an unusually warm night the sun was shining again and we were soon on the trail. In view of the overnight rain we had already decided that we would stick to the Butcher Country Track rather than tackle the steeper Caledonian Track. We stopped for a photo shoot at the bottom of the Butcher Country track before proceeding on the long climb up the ridge. The track was in reasonable condition with few obstacles apart from some steep sections where the overnight rain had made the going difficult, causing some modification to our normal cautious driving techniques. The views from the ridges provided glimpses through the trees of the valley deep below and the surrounding rugged peaks. A GPS reading at a critical moment saved us from making a wrong turn down into the Caledonian Creek track. After some three hours driving nearly all up hill we began to see signs of snow gums and the Howitt Plains soon came into view. Not long after we established radio contact with Trevor Cooke and his party who were waiting to meet up with us at the top of the Butcher Country Track. We met up with Trevor, Phil, Lindsay and Nicholas for lunch at 1.30 p.m. - nearly an hour later than anticipated - the track had taken us well in excess of three hours to negotiate. After lunch and the ritual of gathering firewood we said goodbye to Geoff Taylor and John Adams who were returning to Melbourne and welcomed Trevor’s “Rangie”, and his brother Lindsay’s “Disco” to the party. Trevor took the lead for the run down the Zeka Spur Track with Chris Hendry acting as TEC. The Zeka Spur track was not as good as on past occasions being heavily cut up in places, but by 3.30pm we had reached the Wonnangatta and had found an excellent camping place on the river. Day Three (Saturday): Following a crisp night and some fog the morning broke for another glorious day. With the luxury of a full day in the Wonnangatta we had plenty of time to enjoy the quiet and serenity of the valley and we decided to walk the 3 km’s from our camp to the homestead site. After exploring the old cemetery, the homestead site and the nearby campsite in the Elms we headed back to camp for lunch and a few beers. The afternoon was spent fishing, gathering firewood, tinkering with the HF radio, reading and soaking up the sun – perfect preparation for a big night by the bonfire. Day Four (Sunday): The night was more crisp than the previous night with frost icing up our tents and vehicles. The bonus was a clear blue sky as set off and made our way down the valley towards Dargo. The Hendry’s had previously said goodbye and headed for Melbourne via the Zeka Spur – but the rest of us were headed for the famed Billy Goat Bluff. With Trevor in the lead we took the Little Baldy Spur to access the Wombat Range Track. Half way up the Little Baldy Spur a call came in from Chris Hendry who had reached the top of the Zeka Spur some 23Km’s to the west as the crow flies. Chris had apparently been able to monitor our chatter as we climbed the spur. We stopped at the junction with the Herne Spur to take in some of the most breathtaking scenery of the journey. The clear blue skies provided us with very good views across the surrounding high country. The morning light accentuated the craggy bluffs and the peaks around us. We also had good views down into the Wonnangatta Valley. We proceeded along the Wombat Range Track and then the Cynthia Range track with a long steep descent down to Eaglevale Station which when first sighted from the top of the track appeared as if it was a Golf Course. We stopped on the banks of the Wonnangatta River for lunch and took a welcome lie down on the grass to rest our weary bones and soak up some of the warm sun before proceeding onto our next challenge – Billy Goat Bluff. The climb up Billy Goat Bluff was extremely rough and steep but uneventful in that all vehicles performed well in the arduous and slow going. Once again at the Helicopter Pad we were treated to magnificent views down into Eaglevale and across the ranges – one last look and we pushed on towards the Pinnacles and Moroka Road. Eating dust and driving into the setting sun was now fast becoming our biggest problem. We made Licola by 4.00pm and after a very short stop we pushed on for Traralgon, arriving well after dark and with some 436 Kms travelled since last stopping in Traralgon on the previous Thursday. Once again we reflected on the magnificence of the journey and the country we had seen. Not to mention the great company and camaraderie shared by those lucky enough to have been able to participate. We look forward to our next trip to the high country – but we will now probably have to wait until next spring. - Rod McGregor |
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