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Trip Report - Wonnangatta via Billy Goat Bluff By Rod McGregor Once again the intrepid loyal dreamers of the high country turned their backs on the comforts of lowland homes and risked the late autumn weather to squeeze in one last trip before the trails are closed off for the winter. This trip to reclaim our spiritual homelands was well overdue as it had been over a year since the Wesley Tribe had last visited its traditional lands that are accessed from the southern approaches to the Alps. As usual an advance party consisting of Nick Wirubov, Chris Hendry and Graeme Giles were dispatched to Licola to establish our base camp at "The Bunkhouse". The McGregor party made up of Fiona, James and Rod arrived to a warm welcoming ceremonial fire at approx 9.30pm with our Sergeant at Arms Trevor Cooke close behind at 10.00pm. The traditional offerings were disposed of in copious amounts - ensuring a good night's sleep.
Next day having once
again chanced our arm and won the approval of the gods the weather was fine and
clear. We set off at 0830 hrs and began the climb to Bennison lookout for our
traditional stopover to count the peaks
- a new sign pointing out
across the valley indicating the way to "God's Country" had apparently been
installed by a wandering tribe trying to lay claim over our lands. Onwards to
meet our destiny - Billy Goat Bluff,
After lunch we crossed the
Wonnangatta River and immediately started the long slow Northwards climb up the
Eaglevale Track, Cynthia Range Spur and then West onto Wombat Spur headed for
the Wonnangatta Valley. We were making good time until we reached the
treacherous (when wet) Herne Spur. With hearts in mouths we push our bonnets
over the edge and proceed down the spur.
The steepness in some
parts
of the track leaves us
wondering what is actually stopping us from falling into the river below -
nevertheless skilled and cautious driving sees us all down safely into the
valley floor where we start on the first of around eight river crossings. There
are many inviting campsites at the East end of the valley but after collecting
some of the abundant fire- wood we decide to move to the more open western end
of the valley to reacquaint ourselves with a favoured campsite. We note the
desecration created by feral tribes who felt the need to install seats with
holes in the middle and dangerous long drops under them. Are these mantraps? -
Is this proof that they are planning to take over our lands - we ask? Maybe we
should do what Wombats do and mark our territory!! - That will show em!! We'll
make sure this becomes an- other ritual to carry forward for future visits.
To mark the taking up our traditional lands a large fire was prepared and as darkness approached the ceremonial gingham tablecloth, red wine and cheese platter was unveiled by Nick and Chris. This was truly a momentous occasion as it is tradition that this be done only on clear frosty nights when air temperatures are at freezing or below. The last such occasion being three years earlier on the slopes of Mount Wellington at Millers Hut (May 2001). It was a magnificent evening complete with the howls of wild dogs as the moon shone through - once again we all slept well except for the guard we posted to maintain the fire and keep the wombats, dingoes and feral tribes at bay through the night.
Next morning with the
distant calls of Currawongs. Kookas, Maggies, Cockies and Whip Birds we were not
in a hurry to break camp. Blue Wrens danced around the campfire and fought off
the Yellow Breasted Robins. After a cooked breakfast it was time to pack and
visit the marks. First we stopped at the cemetery and then to the old homestead
site, Conglomerate Creek and surrounds. More snow drifts contrasted against the reds, browns greens and creams of the snow gums caught our eyes as we drove past Howitt Hut, the Caledonia River Track and Bryces Gorge before stopping for a late lunch at Dimmick Lookout. We returned to base camp via Arbuckle Junction at around 1600 hrs ending another successful patrol of our heritage which we rightly reclaimed. With spiritual needs refreshed we look forward to returning in the spring to continue the fight against invading tribes.
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where we arrived at around 1030hrs. Pointing face down we set off down the
extremely steep and rugged track, totally absorbed by absolutely outstanding
views of the surrounding peaks and the valley below. All vehicles and drivers
were working hard. After a break at the helicopter pad we arrived at the
historic Eaglevale river ford in time for our 1300 hrs lunch break. The sun was
shining brightly and the day was warm, despite having seen some remnant snow
drifts from the previous weekend's falls.
A late morning tea beak was spent at the Wonnangatta hut before reluctantly
leaving the valley for the climb up Zeka Spur and onto the Howitt plains.